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Old 04-18-2010, 01:10 AM   #16
ZekenSpider
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 277
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john & vonnie;

I've been watching this thread with interest since you first posted because I too experienced brake problems with my TM (a 3326K) as soon as I drove it home from my dealer in Glendale, AZ. I could feel a surging when I put the brakes on but I attributed it to new brakes that were not yet broken in. I put 1800 miles on the TM before the problem really got serious.

You can read the details at http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=9594 if interested.

My point in responding to your last post is that I sense a little desperation and want to offer some suggestions for some simple tests to find out if you really have a brake problem. Yes you should be able to get them adjusted at any good brake or tire shop, but let's first find out if you really have a brake problem.

One test method that may work is to feel the temperature of your trailer wheels before towing it for several (20) miles (apply the brakes as little as possible). Then right after the tow, feel them again. If the brakes are dragging, the wheel hubs will get noticeably hotter (It could be just one side). If there is dragging, it could be caused by the controller or some other electrical connection problem.

The next method is a way to eliminate the electrical part of the uncertainty.

First unplug the trailer electrical plug from the TV, then with the trailer still attached to the TV hitch to keep it from rolling, jack one trailer wheel at a time off the ground and try to spin it (be sure you are jacking at the proper point according to the Elkmont jacking procedure-call Custom RV for details). The wheels should spin fairly easily. A little rubbing or dragging is OK. If they turn OK, there is no brake adjustment needed (at least until your first 500 mile check).

Next, plug the trailer electrical into the TV and then try each trailer wheel again. They both should spin as before. If not, the brake controller (or some other electrical source) is applying voltage to the trailer brakes when it should not be.

Finally, if the wheels spin OK during the previous tests, plug the electrical into the TV again, then spin them again and while turning, apply the trailer brakes. The wheels should stop instantly. If all this checks out OK, you do not have a brake problem and it should be safe to tow it to Anaheim for more troubleshooting.

I am wondering about the part of your first post where you say the brakes are noisy. What do you hear? If one of you walks along side the trailer as it is slowly towed, what do you hear?(both sides) When the brakes are lightly applied, what do you hear? This is all good information that will help your dealer in his diagnosis.

Regards,

Jerry
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Essie, Jerry and Lil' Bit the Mini Schnauzer-(now replaced by TWO Mini Schnauzers, Sassy and Schotzi)
2010 TM 3326 loaded for 3 day trip, 4955# GTW, 26 gal. water, 9.5 gal. LP, 530# Tongue Wt., 15" Dual Axle, TST Tire monitor, Hensley Cub Hitch
2004 Suburban 1500, 11,100# CGVW
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