[RockyMtnRay]

Originally Posted by JessWD

I would like to ask just how hard is it to make up the permanent Queen size bed? Contour sheets sounds like a preference. I don't like the idea of climbing over each other during the night...especially following and evening when my thirst cannot be quenched and I drink two or three ice teas or a couple beers!

Because of their thin mattresses and need to slide unhindered, TrailManor beds are not particularly conducive to being "made" up with traditional residential type bedding. IMO, the best solution is a TravaSak...basically a very high end sleeping bag with velcro-in/removable high thread-count percale sheets. One side of the Travasak "quilt" has thin insulation (summer); one side has thicker insulation (winter). Yeah pricey but IMO well worth the money. Spread out a Travsak looks like a comforter on the bed. I used an ordinary sleeping bag my first two seasons with a TM and the Travasak was a major step up in comfort and appearance.

If you use battery powered lamps for light, and only use trailer lights for very brief periods.....does anyone know how long the battery lasts with running the frig on it?

At most 4 to 5 hours if the battery is brand new. The standard Group 27 "RV/Marine" battery is not a true deep cycle battery and will lose a lot of its storage capacity if you deep discharge it more than 4 to 5 times. Those of us who do a lot of boondock camping have replaced the standard battery with a pair of 6 volt Golf Cart batteries.

No one has mentioned a Honda generator for dry camping.

Not many folks who do extended boondock camping here...nearly everyone uses campgrounds with hookups...and many/most of us who do regularly boondock have installed solar panels. Generally, solar is much better for battery recharging than a generator. Generators are best for high current draw applications...running the air conditioner or a microwave.

Is there a guage to show how much LP gas remains in the tanks?

Yes.

I hear talk about a "converter." Ignorant regarding a lot to do with electrical matters. Is a "converter" something "extra" one needs to purchase? Or is
it built in? Does it convert the current from AC to DC and vis versa?

A "converter" converts 120 V AC to 12 V DC. A converter is built into the trailer. Most of the key circuits in a TM (water pump, lighting, furnace) are 12 V DC.

I talked to my tire man today while having new tires put on our Tundra. He
said he only will run 8 ply tires on his travel trailer. He said the tires do not hold up the weight of the trailer. Air does that! You don't often think of it
that way. He said he talks to RV people all the time who are running 5000 pounds with 37 or so pounds in the tires. Does everyone run 8 ply tires?

He also said Goodyear runs a steel belt around the inner circle of the tire.....the part that meets the rim. Bridgestone uses rubber. But it's so hard, he said, you can pound it with a hammer and not even leave a mark.
But it gives a much smoother ride. I've run Bridgestones on our vehicles for many many years, exclusively. Today with these new tires it's like riding on
a soft cloud. Even the steering is so soft feeling. And quiet! He also said
to rotate tires every 4000 instead of 5000 as I have in the past. I got 72,000 miles on a set on our Buick Regal once, by faithfully rotating the tires every 5000 miles and keeping air pressure up. That was incredible! Those were Bridgestones too.

The best tire you can put on your Tundra for towing is the Michelin LTX M/S in the 265/75-16 size in a Load Range C. Extremely long life (70 to 90 thousand miles is normal), very good traction, and has a "6 ply" sidewall rating. This is a "Light Truck" tire with stiffer sidewalls so it is very resistant to trailer induced sway.

Avoid Goodyear for towing...quality has dropped a lot in the past few years.

The Bridgestone "Revo" tires are highly rated for traction and load carrying but don't have nearly the tread life of the Michelin LTX tires.

As for the trailer tires, it's critical the 14 inch tires on the 2619/2720 trailers be pumped to exactly 50 PSI. Under no circumstances should these tires be run at a lower pressure than the maximum on the tire sidewall and certainly never at a dangerously low pressure like 37 PSI