It sounds like we have a couple of different questions going on here.
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I can get the water heater to fire up. A nice strong flame for a short time (3 to 5 minutes). The unit then shuts off and does not come back on. The water does not get hot (nor warm for that matter).
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The recovery rate on gas is quite fast. In 3-5 minutes, the water should get quite warm if not hot. If you get a good flame for 3-5 minutes, and the water doesn't even get warm, it makes me ask if there is actually any water in the tank. In addition, the fact that the flame cuts off and won't restart reinforces my suspicion - it appears that the Emergency Cut Off switch has tripped, which would happen if the flame is trying to heat an empty tank. And you mention having to reset the cutoff switch.
You say that the dealer winterized the system and put anti-freeze in it. I bet he also installed a water heater bypass. A bypass, of course, allows water to run PAST the tank (giving you the unheated water that you are seeing), but won't allow any to run INTO the tank (which would result in the ECO switch cutting off). You just need to un-bypass the heater by turning the two or three valves that are involved.
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we need help!!! if we just filled up water tank and still leave fresh water hose connecting to out let(we have pressure regulator) hot water will come out at over flow valve of hot water heater(out side), we needed to turn off water to stop this...
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The water heater doesn't actually have an overflow valve. What you are referring to is the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve, usually just called the T&P valve. Its purpose is to relieve pressure in the tank if the water overheats and boils. If the pressure weren't released, the tank could explode, so it is important.
It is not unusual for the valve to weep a little bit as the water heats up, but it should not run continuously. If it does run continuously, especially just under hose pressure (i.e., without heat), something is wrong. The first step is to pull the trigger in the center of the T&P valve, and let the water rush out for a few seconds. If there is a bit of grit caught in the valve, this should wash it out and stop the leakage. Do this a few times, letting the trigger snap back into place each time.
If you still have leakage under hose pressure, the T&P valve may be bad. They do fail, and they are not hard or expensive to replace. Under the trigger, there is a circular metal tag that tells you the temp and pressure for which it is designed. Note these numbers, go to the hardware store, and buy another one that has the same numbers. Unscrew the old one (you'll need a big wrench), screw in the new one (you'll need teflon plumber's tape), and you are good to go.
By the way, pulling the trigger is messy - the T&P valve dumps water all over the water heater compartment, since there is no diversion. You might want to add a temporary diversion such as a funnel, a piece of pipe, or even a paper plate pushed up behind the valve outlet, to divert the rush of water out onto the ground. That way, only your feet get wet.
There seems to be some question about whether there should be any air in the tank. For the answer, I suggest you go to the manufacturer's web site at
http://www.rvcomfort.com/html/suburb...questions.html and look at question number 5.
Hope this helps - let us know.
Bill