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Old 07-11-2017, 09:18 PM   #7
klpauba
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 239
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Here's a bit more detail on the wiring that runs from the panels to the rear battery compartment.

I ended up using a heat gun in the vicinity of the panel MC-4 connector (the positive line coming from the street-side flex panel). I couldn't get the CordMate III to snap closed. You'll notice a bit of waviness of the surface but at least it closes now.

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The CordMate III included enough connectors for everything but I ended needing a few more feet of channel so I bought another "kit". I used up some of the "joining" connectors (I think that's what the directions called them) for re-enforcement. When things are all connected, I'll probably put a little caulking to help keep them in place. I think I'll also take some white cable ties and cinch them around the lift arms to help ensure they won't go anywhere. They look a bit dirty but if I have time before a trip on 7/22 I'll give them a shot of white Rustoleum Fusion plastic paint.

When the channel reaches the bottom of the shell, it makes a turn toward the front of the trailer and terminates at the pocket stop. At this point, the wires become exposed to the elements as they loop to the lift arm. I used some spiral wrap to keep the wires contained (picked the wrap up at Home Depot close to where the CordMate III was located). I open and closed the rear shell to make sure there was no binding of the wiring bundle .

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I again used some spiral wrap on the bundle of wires where the channel terminated at the torsion bars. I loosely secured the wrapped bundle to one of the torsion bars. You might be able to make out the dark video cable from the camera that separates from the others and heads up inside the street-side rectangular frame member to the hitch area. The remaining wires make a u-turn into the street-side rear bumper area.

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My next step will be to cover the solar panels so very little power is on the wire. Then I can safely fish the three wires into the rear battery area that I call the "electrical room" and make some terminations. Before I do that, though, I'll need to program the MPPT controller for the proper charging of the two Trojan T-105's.
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TM: 2005 2720SL -- lift kit, 15" Maxxis, LEDs, Husky ejack, GenPro soft start, 2300W gen, "H-Bridge", 1.44 cf Edgestar frig/freezer, 2xGC2, 1KW Inverter w/auto xfer switch, Trimetric Batt Monitor, 300W Solar (1 glass & 2 flex panels), EP Solar MPPT, Thetford Curve
TV: 2021 F-150 PowerBoost XLT Hybrid -- 7.2 kW Onboard Generator Option
Previous TV: 2012 Traverse -- "Stockton" 24V Boost Device

Map of where we've camped in our TM:
http://visitedstatesmap.com/image/IAMNMONEsm.jpg
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