Quote:
Originally Posted by FairviewFairyFarm
Thanks for all the info, so is it bad to plug it in to a standard outlet? I have read that the WFCO 8955 is the "worst power converter"of all time and many people switch out to the Boondocker or PD converter. Do you think this would be a good idea or not necessary? How would I make a charger like the one in the link you shared work on the road?
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The Bondocker upgrade improves things A LOT, but it will probably still trip the CFGI if batteries are severely discharged when you plug in. You would not need or use the CTEK on road, unless you stay at other peoples' homes: All RV parks and Campgrounds are built without GFI on the RV power connection circuits, and the Boondocker (or existing WFCO) would work OK.
I strongly recommend performing the 'Boondocker' upgrade for your Trailer, as soon as you can order it and find time to open up the Trailer and do the job (at home). It takes only 30 minutes (first time), because you don't need to re-do any of the downstream "DC appliance" connections. Most of the 30 minutes will be figuring out how to follow instructions and remove the WFCO main board. Having done it once, I could now do the job in less than 5 minutes. Your three big reasons to do this are:
#1, the WFCO converter section is unreliable, and a lot more sensitive to poor-quality campground power: it's quite likely to 'blow up' when you're a thousand miles from home;
#2, the WFCO does a significantly worse job of charging and maintaining batteries. (With SLA batteries, The Boondocker can reach 80% State-Of-Charge, while the WFCO leaves them around 70%.)
#3, the WFCO is *A LOT* more noisy on it's DC output. The presence of batteries to "filter" the noise is critical with both units, but there's a lot less noise with the Boondocker. (The switching controls are better, and the DC filter capacitors are bigger.) If you use finicky electronics on 12VDC, they will be less stressed.
PD makes better converters than the Boondocker, but their best ones are very costly, and all of them would be a complete replacement: That means rewiring of all the 'DC Distribution' fuse board connections. (marking which ones use 20A breakers versus 10A breakers versus 5A breakers as you pull them off the WFCO board, and matching them back up to proper breakers in the PD, and marking "what goes where".) I'll SWAG as a 2-1/2 hour job, instead of 1/2 hour.