Quote:
Originally Posted by YNPKing
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I only run the refrigerator on DC when traveling.
We both have a Jeep GC although a different year. My Trailer Tow Group IV includes a 220-amp alternator and the schematic shows a 30-amp fuse so I assume we have the same 10-gauge wiring in the TV. I checked the pins on the Bargman with a volt meter and there is power.
The TM schematic shows 12-Gauge wiring to the WF-8955 converter and 10-Gauge wiring to the battery.
In my reading, some other sites indicate that RV trailer wiring is only capable of a few amps and cannot really charge a trailer battery but TM may be different. Any further thoughts would be appreciated on how to determine if the battery is able to get 16 amps to offset running the fan and refrigerator?
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This is a common problem, and the search engine will turn up a number of threads on the topic. TM's are not unique -- they have the problem just like everyone else. The solution is to run heavy wire -- think welding cable size -- for as long as possible between the alternator and the TM battery. Like 2-gauge or 4-gauge wire, and you need 2 runs -- one for positive and another for ground. And that gets expensive very fast, which is why RV and car manufacturers don't do it. Most RV'ers camp with hookups, so battery drain isn't an issue.
FYI, my fridge draws about 10 amps, and the fan another 0.5 amp.
To solve this problem, I installed a DC-input battery charger in the TM that is powered by the TV, as described in the second link below. So either you do that, or like a few other folks have done here, install bigger wire. Those are the only options for getting more current to the TM.
Check out these threads:
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=8268
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=10587
Dave