Closing Efforts

We have a 2720.   My wife is lightweight (120lbs) and usually struggles to latch the second side of the top shell.  On occasion she can get it but usually I watch her struggle for a bit before stepping in.

Does this seem familiar or is our unit on the hard to-close side?

[Bill]

We find that the first side to be closed (regardless of which side that is) is easier to close than the second side, so I let me wife close hers first. Beyond that, one of the four stirrups (I forget which) is more difficult than the others to get into since the toe space is limited, so we close that one first. Also, closing the back half is easier if you don't latch the door - then you can reach through the door opening and "hang" onto the roof as it comes down.

Bill

[Paul_Heuvelhorst]

If the torsion bars are adjusted correctly, opening and closing should be reasonably easy, no matter how large or small the person is.

Remember the sequence (it does make a difference). Close the back half first, and latch the 'curb' side first, then the 'street' side. Then, close the front half, again latching the 'curb' side first, then the 'street' side. Finally, fasten the small latches at the corners before moving the trailer down the road.

My wife & I used to take a side... she on the 'curb' side, me on the 'street' side... mainly because she could use the open upper door to access the top of the back half and give her the extra leverage to make sure is was down far enough to latch. She would let me know when her side was latched, then I latched mine. Once the back half is latched down on both sides the front half is easy, since you can reach the top and pull it down the last couple inches to make latching easier.

I hope that helps those who are having difficulty.

[arknoah]

Interesting.  I have always thought that the second side is the easiest to close, because the opposite half is already being held down by a clip.  Once I realized the importance of making sure the back of the rear half was resting on the rubber securely before latching the curb side, I have had no difficulty in latching the unit.  On the other hand, I weigh 190 lbs, and do wonder if a 120 lb person could do it easily alone.

Using the open top half of the door to gain a purchase for the rear shell is an interesting suggestion which I 'll try although it's the forward shell that I find more difficult with my unit.

It sounds like I use more effort than suggested by Paul H. Would the factory do a shell alignment "tune up" if we plan to be passing down I-75?  How much time is involved if this is possible?

Thanks for the good help.

[Chris_Bauer]

I use the same method outlined by Paul H.  In addition I open the top half of the door and pull down on the edge of the roof.  I have never used the stirrups.

Before the warranty ran out, I had the torsion bars adjusted and it is even easier now.  Apparently the adjustment can be done at home but I was not at the dealer when they did it to observe how.  

Opening and closing should be effortless. If not, then an adjustment is required.  We are both under 160 lbs.

Thanks for your comments.  We'll be stopping in at the TM factory for some adjustment.  

Also, aren't there heavier duty latches available?  The latches on my 1999 2720 show significant metal wear at the "hook".  I could get these replaced at the same time.

[Happytrails]

As per Trailmanor, the torsion bars can be "shimmed" up if it starts getting hard to open and close it. How this is done I have no clue, but it sounded like it was no big deal and something that can be done at home. I'm having my local RV shop "shim" mine up and I'll ask them what they did in case I ever need to do it later.......

[Denny_A]

>As per Trailmanor, the torsion bars can be "shimmed" up if it starts getting hard to open and close it. How this is done I have no clue, but it sounded like it was no big deal and something that can be done at home. I'm having my local RV shop "shim" mine up and I'll ask them what they did in case I ever need to do it later....... <

Here's the briefing I received (paraphrased and embellished) from my "most excellent dealer".

With the camper closed, look at the underside of the frame. You will see large bolt heads projecting straight down toward the ground. Two fwd and aft, and 4 in the center. Or, 4 on the left and 4 on the right.

The bolts are cranked in or out, as needed, to adjust the torsion which will develop when the shells are closing, while being made ready for towing. Adjustments should (I think) be made with the shell up (low/no torsion load), and only in small increments.

With the shells raised (min torsion) adjust the bolt "in" to increase torsion and "out" to reduce. The Torsion rods extend all the way across the underside of the frame.

So, let's say the road side, center frame support, of the forward shell, is difficult to close and latch. Raise the front shell, then go to the curb side of the frame. Identify the support to be adjusted and follow the tortion bar, under the frame, from the road side to the point on the curb side where the adjusting bolt is located. Back the bolt out 1/2 to one turn (or whatever). Close the shell. If it still closes with too much effort, repeat. If it's even tougher to close - ya turned the wrong way! Refine until satisfied. Take two aspirins and call me in the morning ;D .

Denny_A

Thanks,

If I understand you correctly, you describe the adjustment the torsion rod's counterbalance.  I feel my problem is more alignment related as the shells aren't quite "parallel" to each other along the horizontal surface.

[Denny_A]

>Thanks,<

>If I understand you correctly, you describe the adjustment the torsion rod's counterbalance.  I feel my problem is more alignment related as the shells aren't quite "parallel" to each other along the horizontal surface. <

I re-read all the posts, and it seemed as if you, and the other responders were discussing closing effort - as a function of tortion bar loading.

The above is the first sense I have of the problem being alignment.
So let's just say my post is for future reference.

If you do find out what is meant by shimming; more to the point, how to do it, please let us know. I've already had two closing misalignments in which the latch didn't align with the catch pin. Although I think it might have been my fault - I just don't know why, or how.

Denny_A


 

[Bill]

Thanks for the tutorial on torsion bar adjustment, Denny. *If I understand it correctly, it would seem that for each shell, it is possible to adjust the left side torque separately from the right side torque. Assuming this is true, I would think that if the two sides were not adjusted equally, then the shell would tend to be misaligned as it comes down. *This also suggests a fix for a misaligned shell - simply crank up the torque on the side that is coming down too far outside, or reduce the torque on the other side.

Let us know the result, however it comes out.

Bill

[Denny_A]

Bill wrote:
>Thanks for the tutorial on torsion bar adjustment, Denny.  If I understand it correctly, it would seem that for each shell, it is possible to adjust the left side torque separately from the right side torque. Assuming this is true, I would think that if the two sides were not adjusted equally, then the shell would tend to be misaligned as it comes down.  This also suggests a fix for a misaligned shell - simply crank up the torque on the side that is coming down too far outside, or reduce the torque on the other side.<

Bill,

I feel sure you are correct about the misalignment as a function of tortion mismatch. It should have been obvious on my forwrd shell since I purchased the trailer (February '02, )had I only paid closer attention

Yesterday I adjusted the road side of my forward shell. The road side center of the shell settled at a "comparatively" obtuse (less acute?) angle, as compared to the curb side arm. Difficult to close (due to tortion and goofy alignment) when I had no assistance.

So, I backed the torsion bolt out 3/4 of a turn. It's now a little easier to close, but probaly needs another 3/4 turn or so. Keith Hawlsley (at the factory) told me the ratio of turns to lb-ft of torque (fully closed position) - but, the numbers are permanently deleted from my volatile memory. Even if I could remember the values, I still can't think of a practical means of applying the info.  Adjust n' test seems to work just fine.

Denny_A

As a follow up to the original post:

We had the factory install new (white) latches.  We close easier now.  These are more robust than what the original 1999 version.  The latches have a larger engagement area for the striker.

Installation required repositioning of the striker brackets which means redrilling mtg holes.