12 year old used purchase hints?

Hi,

I'm new to the group and considering purchasing a 1990 2619 for $5000.  Are there any particular problem areas I should pay particular attention to?  Does the price seem reasonable?

Thanks.

[Happytrails]

Yup, and welcome to our little group! Check the wood in the bottom of the camper, remove a few of the screws if you can and see if they're rusted up from the bottom of the front and rear sections of the lower portion of the two shells of the upper sections. 1 or two will do. If they're screwed into aluminum tubing, you're good to go! To tell if you're in aluminum tubing or wood, just take a coathanger and poke it in, if it seems like it's going into hollow tubing, ya got aluminum, well, you get the picture. The price certainly sounds really good for a 1990! I've seen a 1987 go for $7,000.00 after being reduced from $11,000 on the net! Make sure they show ya that everything else works as well......especially the fridge........if there's rust on the grey tubing on back of it, it'll go soon.......that's $800.00 or so to replace. Just tell them to remove the inspection covers while open. They should be willing to show ya the back of the fridge. Take a flashlight, and look up in where the travel arms go up in the upper shells while it's in the down position and see if the wood looks ok, or if ya got steel, it's doing alright......little rust is ok..... Inquire about the tires, if older than 2 years, they'll need replacing.....(at least I would if they're strange tires......I'm kinda picky about that). Shine that flashlight up in the wheel wells........it's probably not going to have the round ones, if it does.....someone's made that modification already and you're good to go there. Taking the light away, see if you see any light up in there with the cabinets open. If there's a bit of light, you'll have to seal that up. Check the sewer system and make sure all the valves there work properly including the one on the terlit inside the TM. Check for blown fuses and things like that. A biggie a lot of people miss is make sure all the travel lights work.......ie the ones that light up when going down the road............Check the anode rod, it probably needs replacing, not much of a big deal, but most people selling will replace it if needed in the water heater. Ok guys, if I've missed anything that wouldn't be noticed in a normal "inspection" of a TM, speak up now? Hope this helps!

Happytrails.......

Thanks, Happytrail.

By your reply, I assume that some 1990's are wood-framed and some are aluminum tube, right?

Can you tell me more about the "round" wheel wells?  What is this modifocation and why would I need it?

How do I check the toilet valves and anode rod?

Thanks again.

[arknoah]

Rounded wheel wells are preferred because in a tire blowout, with squared wheel wells, the well gets more damaged than with the round wheel wells.  This means that with the squared ones, more debris gets into the trailer, potentially damaging cabinets, etc.

Check the anode rod by simply unscrewing it from the bottom of the water heater.  It can be somewhat pitted, but should still have the small core intact.  We decided to replace ours once per year just as a precaution against poor water quality.

[hal]

     bvandrasik  Go to [email protected].  I will give you my mailing address.  You can send me an sase for instructions on retrofitting the wheel wells and changing the annode rod.

Hal

[Happytrails]

To be honest, I'm not sure when TM switched over from wood to aluminum tubing in the lower sections of the clam shells, but a simple inspection up in where the travel arms go with a flashlight will tell you. I'd send Hal the SASE for those instructions, he's definately the one to talk to about the wheel well modification. As far as the valves, be sure to make sure all the tanks are empty first! But just give them a tug....when I first tried to pull the one on my thetford, it wouldn't budge.....but a little elbow grease, it gave in and pulled out......it had been sitting so long in the closed position, it was stuck for a bit, but works just fine now.....don't forget the two ya have outside for the grey and black water. Might also make sure all the nipples the sewer hose connects to are intact. Something else kinda obscure ya might want to check is turn on the gas, then take a few sniffs around the gas bottles, as well as where they connect at the frame of the TM. I have a small leak at that point that I'll have to fix with a little teflon tape.....not a big deal, but could pose a disasterous situation at some point in time......also check those LP hoses for dryrot. This brings me to one more thing to point out. I don't know when they started requiring LP/Carbon Monoxide detectors, but mine didn't come with one......but I bought a good one for around $50.00.....if yours doesn't have one, make em put one in....I think it's the law now. (Carbon Monoxide via a generator/tow vehicle running?) As well as a smoke detector. Also, make sure all the outlets/12v plug-ins work and finally, check for blown fuses around the converter....if one's blown, get it replaced, and make sure it doesn't blow again by turning everything on. Can anyone think of anything else kinda obscure that might be missed on an initial inspection?


Happytrails..........