Roof slope?

[Pele2048]

So I just checked out a 2004 TrailManor 3023. Everything looked solid except for the roof on the back half.

If I'm standing in the kitchen area, under the Air Conditioner, the roof has a sag in the middle. Is this normal?

When viewing the vinyl curtain that completes the upper 3-4 inches of the bathroom wall and considering the bathroom wall to be level, the height difference at the edge and towards the door of the bathroom is about an inch or so... If that makes any sense.

Is this normal?

[HoMiPa]

Is this normal?

I don't know if its normal, or not, but mine is like that. I have a 2005 3023. Mine spent a winter, opened, at my cousin's house, while they were waiting to get their occupancy permit on a new construction home. Legally, they couldn't stay in the home without it, but the town was slower than cold molasses issuing the permit. So for appearances, the TM was there as if they were living in it. Unfortunately, this was a winter we had 22 feet of snow, and he didn't necessarily keep the roof clear. My front shell is creased in two places, most likely from the weight of snow on the roof. The back shell sags as you described. I battled water leaks for a while, mostly at the front of the a/c, and rear of roof vent right in front of the a/c - both places on the front shell. Last year I pulled all the caulking and sealed all the roof seams with Eternabond tape. It's not pretty, but it works.

Look for water stains at top of curtain & valance on the rear window - if the back shell leaks, water will usually run down the trim along the center roof line and dribble down on the valance & curtain.

[Pele2048]

I'm mainly worried about water infiltration due to the sagging in the middle. I'd expect the middle to be higher than the outer edges to allow water to run off the sides.

[Larryjb]

My 2720 fits snuggly from the sides to the middle. I believe the TM website actually says they deliberately slope it down to the sides. If it doesn't slope this way, it doesn't sound good.

[br2_wdc]

So I just checked out a 2004 TrailManor 3023. Everything looked solid except for the roof on the back half.

If I'm standing in the kitchen area, under the Air Conditioner, the roof has a sag in the middle. Is this normal?

When viewing the vinyl curtain that completes the upper 3-4 inches of the bathroom wall and considering the bathroom wall to be level, the height difference at the edge and towards the door of the bathroom is about an inch or so... If that makes any sense.

Is this normal?

Can you take some pictures and post them? That would help a great deal in diagnosing any potential issue.

[Bill]

Everything looked solid except for the roof on the back half. If I'm standing in the kitchen area, under the Air Conditioner, the roof has a sag in the middle. Is this normal?

Let me be sure I understand. The REAR roof has a sag, but the air conditioner is mounted on the FRONT roof? That's unusual. Usually it is the front roof that bends down under the weight of the air conditioner.

By 2004, I think the shells had aluminum framing, so wood rot shouldn't be an issue. It sounds like someone of considerable heft climbed up on the rear roof, moved to the edge, and ... well, you know.

I'm not quite sure how to fix it, but first let us know that my mental picture is accurate.

Bill

[BrucePerens]

My 3023 front shell has a sag. There's an obvious reason: three cut-outs right next to each other, for two roof vents and the air conditioner, plus the weight of the air conditioner. Yes, it is more likely to leak here, and you can pay some attention to the sealing of the openings.

[Larryjb]

Check for the slope on the outside. On the inside, my 2720 is almost perfectly flat, but has a crown on the outside.

[Pele2048]

Let me be sure I understand. The REAR roof has a sag, but the air conditioner is mounted on the FRONT roof? That's unusual. Usually it is the front roof that bends down under the weight of the air conditioner.

By 2004, I think the shells had aluminum framing, so wood rot shouldn't be an issue. It sounds like someone of considerable heft climbed up on the rear roof, moved to the edge, and ... well, you know.

I'm not quite sure how to fix it, but first let us know that my mental picture is accurate.

Bill

You're right... It's the back roof. The front half roof is pretty flat.

[BrucePerens]

You're right... It's the back roof. The front half roof is pretty flat.

Something happened to it. Like snow load. Maybe you should keep looking.

[Pele2048]

http://i.imgur.com/YyPbFfU.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/nwWPjV9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/1NhTiZV.jpg

Perhaps the most unfortunate picture is this one of me hauling it home.

http://i.imgur.com/pQI4DzN.jpg

I'm not sure what I've gotten myself into. Buyer's remorse and anxiety is kicking in.

[BrucePerens]

Um. That's not good.

[br2_wdc]

I'm not sure what I've gotten myself into. Buyer's remorse and anxiety is kicking in.

Yes, not ideal, but just so I am clear in earlier post it sounded like you were still looking at it and had not purchased, but apparently you purchased this unit?

[Pele2048]

Yes, not ideal, but just so I am clear in earlier post it sounded like you were still looking at it and had not purchased, but apparently you purchased this unit?

I checked it out shortly after it rained and picked it up IN the rain, which kinda put me at ease because it wasn't actively leaking...

I put a deposit on it after seeing it and went up to pick it up the other day.
It's been pretty nasty here in Washington DC.

There are a few drips in the center channel but that's about it.

I just figured it wasn't that bad and perhaps could be repaired easily.

[br2_wdc]

I checked it out shortly after it rained and picked it up IN the rain, which kinda put me at ease because it wasn't actively leaking...

I put a deposit on it after seeing it and went up to pick it up the other day.
It's been pretty nasty here in Washington DC.

There are a few drips in the center channel but that's about it.

I just figured it wasn't that bad and perhaps could be repaired easily.

If you did purchase this unit, you are much braver then me; I spent 2 months going through this site, getting as much information as I could before I even started looking!

I wish I had better news, but from the pictures that is not a trivial issue. It appears that something heavy somehow dropped down on the roof. It looks like there is structural damage to the roof itself, and I am not sure it can be repaired at all, let alone easily. Also, any sort of drips from that center channel is not ideal, but with some patience and hard work they can be fixed; many articles here on the site can walk you through it.

Did you purchase directly from the previous owner or an RV dealer? What did they say about the roof issues? Also, did you go through the pre-purchase checklist available on this site where you check all the major systems: gas furnace, fridge, stove, bathroom, and hot water heater?

One last thing I noticed is you are still a "trial" member, so if the purchase of this TM is a "done deal", then you MUST send $12 to become a full member on this site; you do not have access to everything you need to tackle any of these issues until you become a full member.

[Larryjb]

I would be curious if the inner roof skin could be separated to repair the structure and restore the crown. I bet the inner skin could be reglued to the foam and secured with rivets.

Alternatively, with the skin removed, the foam could be removed also, and sound deadening strips added to the inside of the outer skin. lf the inner skin were secured using rivets, a series of holes could be drilled, through which a low expanding spray foam could be injected.

You might then have quietest and warmest roof of us all. Or this might be the craziest idea ever dreampt up.

[Pele2048]

If you did purchase this unit, you are much braver then me; I spent 2 months going through this site, getting as much information as I could before I even started looking!

Yeah, I only found this site after I was looking at the unit.

I HAD been looking at canvas based popups (Coleman, Fleetwood, etc.) for a few years and sitting on the fence about even buying one due to mold/mildew concerns and some models having the tendency for the roof to delaminate.

I also wanted A/C AND an indoor shower, which is difficult to find in a popup.
But I wanted a sub 3500 lb trailer and I didn't want a full-size travel trailer parked in the driveway.


I wish I had better news, but from the pictures that is not a trivial issue. It appears that something heavy somehow dropped down on the roof. It looks like there is structural damage to the roof itself, and I am not sure it can be repaired at all, let alone easily. Also, any sort of drips from that center channel is not ideal, but with some patience and hard work they can be fixed; many articles here on the site can walk you through it.

I don't see any creases in the interior aluminum skin or cracks in the outer vinyl skin. I feel I should be able to repair it.

I'm an experienced DIYer. I've stripped my entire kitchen down to studs, rewired it (Replaced aluminum wiring with copper), replumbed it (copper), drywalled, tiled, cabinets and granite countertops... I've done electrical panel replacements and framework within my houses as well.

I'm also an experienced mechanic. I've rebuilt engines and transmissions, done suspension and brake work. My day job is an Electrical Engineer.


Did you purchase directly from the previous owner or an RV dealer? What did they say about the roof issues? Also, did you go through the pre-purchase checklist available on this site where you check all the major systems: gas furnace, fridge, stove, bathroom, and hot water heater?

Yes, all the systems worked. Original Norcold fridge runs in all three modes, Water heater has been replaced and fires up. Stove and oven light up and burn clean. Bathroom works as far as water flowing... I didn't drop a deuce in the toilet or anything, but I filled it with water and let it flow with the flush button.


One last thing I noticed is you are still a "trial" member, so if the purchase of this TM is a "done deal", then you MUST send $12 to become a full member on this site; you do not have access to everything you need to tackle any of these issues until you become a full member.

Done! $12 a year is reasonable.

[BrucePerens]

This might be a "live with it" thing rather than one you repair. I can think of a few ways to attempt to bend it back, but they probably aren't worth the risk of entirely trashing the shell.

I keep my TM under a 20x30 tarp in rainy season, about $60 from Harbor Freight. There's an Adco cover over that. This will be less convenient if you live where it rains year round. The tarp has lasted two years so far, I patched a few holes with gorilla tape on both sides. Same for the cover.

Some people warn that you can get mildew by using a tarp over your RV, I've not experienced any. The tarp is open at the bottom and air moves through it.

[br2_wdc]

Yes, all the systems worked. Original Norcold fridge runs in all three modes, Water heater has been replaced and fires up. Stove and oven light up and burn clean. Bathroom works as far as water flowing... I didn't drop a deuce in the toilet or anything, but I filled it with water and let it flow with the flush button.

Excellent news ... all the other systems are in working order, and you are clearly able to handle essentially any other issue.

Once you have full access, you'll see the vast knowledge base available, and with some searches I'm pretty sure you'll figure out if there is a fix for the roof structure or if you can fabricate something on your own.

To get you started on how the roof structure works before you get full access, I did a quick search on "roof fix", and thought the follow post may help; post is under the subject of "Trailmanor Exterior Shell Needs Repair" for hail damage:


My trail manor in Castle Rock, CO experienced some pretty bad hail damage. I know The Car Show in Colorado Springs recently closed its doors. Does anyone know of a business that can do this repair in the Denver area?

Thank you

Richard

Your best alternative might be not to fix it, except for the few dents that make the roof leak.

Does anyone know of a business that has ever repaired hail damage on a Trailmanor? I got mine as salvage because the insurer wrote off a hail-damaged TM as totalled, and I believe Tom Clarkson got his the same way. Other folks here have bought their TM back from the insurer after it was totaled for hail damage.

The skin of a Trailmanor doesn't come off the way the skin of a conventional RV can, and conventional fiberglass repair doesn't work on it. The wall and roof panels are a laminated foam sandwich.

The alumium skin is coated with a polyester glaze called Krystal Kote which in general won't be replaced after any repainting operation. In theory a professional could spray it, but it's two-part and sets in 15 minutes in your spray gun if you're not careful.

I have a theory that a lightweight version of Bondo containing glass spheres filled with air could be used to fill dents, but I've not tested it yet.

BrucePerens


You can't replace the skin of a TM. As BrucePerens mentioned above, the walls and roof are formed by gluing the inside and outside metal skins to a foam-slab core. If you try to remove the skin, it will pull the core apart and destroy it.

The TM factory might be willing to replace the entire shell, but that is wildly expensive. That is why hail damage usually results in an insurance declaration of total loss.

Although I've not heard of anyone doing it, it seems to me that it might be possible to use something like an automotive dent-puller, to grab the skin at the site of the damage, and pull it back out until it is nearly flat with the surrounding skin. You still have to seal the hole where the dent puller was used, so I'm not sure you are ahead of the game.

Bottom line is probably what has been posted above. Seal the dimples so they don't leak. Then call that good enough, and enjoy your TM.
Bill

Welcome aboard and with this site and your skills, I am certain you'll find some options for the roof.

[Pele2048]

This might be a "live with it" thing rather than one you repair. I can think of a few ways to attempt to bend it back, but they probably aren't worth the risk of entirely trashing the shell.

I keep my TM under a 20x30 tarp in rainy season, about $60 from Harbor Freight. There's an Adco cover over that. This will be less convenient if you live where it rains year round. The tarp has lasted two years so far, I patched a few holes with gorilla tape on both sides. Same for the cover.

Some people warn that you can get mildew by using a tarp over your RV, I've not experienced any. The tarp is open at the bottom and air moves through it.

I found that the seller advertised the TrailManor that I bought on this site: http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18014
I had no idea that it was for sale since February. I shoulda talked him down more. I found it on CraigsList.

It was only $4200. And it included some fairly expensive things like an Equal-i-zer weight distributing/sway control hitch. It also included a tarp and a 25 ft 10AWG extension cord with 30 amp connectors on the ends.

I figure the hitch retails for $400-500 and the cord and tarp should be good for another $100.

For the price of mid $3000's, I will be able to live with it, so long as it doesn't get water inside...

EDIT: Just noticed your signature at the bottom of your post...

73 de W3RPM

[HoMiPa]

As I said originally, mine is very similar, although not to the degree that I see daylight coming in between the back shell & front shell, as it appears in one of your photos.

I have no issue with leaks, now that I've sealed all the roof seams with Eternabond tape. However, I am aware that my rear shell is slightly concave, so I usually store it with the rear end lower than the front end. I also keep it tarped, have for several years, and have never had any issue with mold or mildew. I have zero doubt that mine is from snow load. After the initial damage, for two years I rigged up a framing system with 3" PVC as a frame (one for front shell, one for rear shell), laying on the roof, with 1" PVC arched over the top, after drilling holes in the 3" PVC to stick them into. Then tarped the whole thing. I didn't do that this past winter. Not only that, I am remodeling, so I've removed most everything from inside. Lesson learned, I should have left the mattresses in place. Without the arched roof under the tarp, there was snow load again this past winter, and the rear shell pressed down enough (with no mattress in place to stop it), that the vertical side counter to the left of the kitchen sink, the one that the forward bathroom wall butts up against, ended up punching through the interior rear ceiling, in the shower area. Cosmetic damage only, and I'll seal it up with Eternabond tape, but as a warning, with your roof in the same condition as mine, I wouldn't close the trailer up without having the mattress in place.

[rvcycleguy]

That's unfortunate the seller didn't offer the known issues. I understand hindsight is forever, but the seller had to have known the trailer leaked and the roof compromised and had known roof issues. The picture he offered looking back towards the rear shell shows the face where the bag seal is is compromised and damaged. The exterior roof pictures show the center raised molding is missing all the way front to back. Looks like Eternabond tape running the length. Seller either did that or was there when he bought it. Whichever, disclosure was the best way to deal with a buyer. Sad....

[HoMiPa]

The exterior roof pictures show the center raised molding is missing all the way front to back. Looks like Eternabond tape running the length. Seller either did that or was there when he bought it. Whichever, disclosure was the best way to deal with a buyer. Sad....

I agree that's Eternabond tape (or a similar type), running the length - it sure isn't the original seal. Mine is not bowed in as much, so my bag seal still seals fairly well. However, if that rear seal is facing the prevailing wind in a serious storm, I have no doubt I'll have leakage - which is why I keep it tarped. This one though, the bag seal isn't even touching the rear shell in the center....

Disclosure is required in some states - not sure if this would fall in within the parameters of the state disclosure laws, but might be worth checking into....

[Pele2048]

As I guessed, it sounds like a lot of weight was put on the rear shell. A couple extra-large guys, a snowload, or whatever. At this point, it doesn't really matter.

For an attempt at repair, I think I would
1. Open the front shell fully
2. Open the rear shell a couple inches
3. Climb inside over the hitch and propane area
4. Put a sturdy prop under the center of the rear shell, right at its front edge
5. Put some serious weight on the left and right edges of the rear shell, right at its front edge.
Perhaps it will bend back a bit toward the normal shape. Assuming it is an aluminum frame, this should be safe as long as you don't try to bend it too far. If it appears to be helping, proceed incrementally, but watch carefully to see if the aluminum skin is detaching from the frame.

Are there any known solvents that are NOT compatible with the KrystalKote Polyester on the outside of the TrailManor? Are there any recommended solvents for cleaning?As always, check the Trailmanor Technical Library for questions like this. In this case, start here
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12588

Bill

[Bill]

Not meaning to add to your discomfort, but your post #11 is a great example of why I really dislike online picture hosting sites. What I see in #11 are HUGE pictures - too huge to be of any use. If these pictures were hosted right here on the forum, I could fix them for you. I do this quite often. But since they are hosted on a third party site, I can't touch them. In the future, please consider shrinking your photos before posting them, and also posting them right here on the forum. It is easy!

Bill

[Pele2048]

Not meaning to add to your discomfort, but your post #11 is a great example of why I really dislike online picture hosting sites. What I see in #11 are HUGE pictures - too huge to be of any use. If these pictures were hosted right here on the forum, I could fix them for you. I do this quite often. But since they are hosted on a third party site, I can't touch them. In the future, please consider shrinking your photos before posting them, and also posting them right here on the forum. It is easy!

Bill

It appears that I can edit my posts after the fact. I will resize them to 1024x768 tomorrow when I'm as my desktop.

They are hosted on "imgur.com" it's a free no-nonsense pic hosting site with even less bloat than Photobucket.

I thought they were oversized due to me having various scripts blocked. Since this isn't on my normal repertoire of websites visited, I haven't quite gotten all the stuff added to the whitelist on my script/ad blocker.

Some forums auto-resize.

[Pele2048]

As I guessed, it sounds like a lot of weight was put on the rear shell. A couple extra-large guys, a snowload, or whatever. At this point, it doesn't really matter.

For an attempt at repair, I think I would
1. Open the front shell fully
2. Open the rear shell a couple inches
3. Climb inside over the hitch and propane area
4. Put a sturdy prop under the center of the rear shell, right at its front edge
5. Put some serious weight on the left and right edges of the rear shell, right at its front edge.
Perhaps it will bend back a bit toward the normal shape. Assuming it is an aluminum frame, this should be safe as long as you don't try to bend it too far. If it appears to be helping, proceed incrementally, but watch carefully to see if the aluminum skin is detaching from the frame.

As always, check the Trailmanor Technical Library for questions like this. In this case, start here
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12588

Bill

Wait, what?
I didn't write that.

[Bill]

No, I wrote that. I'm not sure why it is showing up under your name. I'll see if I can figure it out, but it doesn't look like anything malicious.

Bill

[Pele2048]

No, I wrote that. I'm not sure why it is showing up under your name. I'll see if I can figure it out, but it doesn't look like anything malicious.

Bill

Not at all. Just noticed that you're a moderator. The Edit and Quote buttons are right next to each other. I've made that mistake before; I'm a mod on another forum.

I just didn't see the "Last Edited by..." field at the bottom and it confused me.

[Bill]

Oops! Sounds like you've got it. My apologies, and thanks for your patience.

Bill

[Pele2048]

Oops! Sounds like you've got it. My apologies, and thanks for your patience.

Bill

It's all good. If possible, can you retrieve the old version of my post. I sometimes refer back to my own writing to keep myself organized.

[Bill]

Pele2048 -

I don't have the tools to do that (do you, on your other forum? I may have to converse with the admin here.) If you really need the original version, I imagine he can get it for you. But I can't.

[Robert's TM]

I'm wondering if it could bent back?

Are the connecting joints that join the two halves aluminum?

One could brace the floor with 4x4's ( spread the weight ) as long as can be put inside
4x4 at the top inside maybe 10 inches long..... Jack and a post to stretch upward... Towells to keep scratches or scrapes... Possibly may have to put a strap around outside with cushion and boards to stop any other movement.

All that might work.... Or could make it worse...



Have to know what the connectors are made of. Since it bent.... I'm thinking its probably malleable.

[rvcycleguy]

I'm wondering if it could bent back?

Are the connecting joints that join the two halves aluminum?

One could brace the floor with 4x4's ( spread the weight ) as long as can be put inside
4x4 at the top inside maybe 10 inches long..... Jack and a post to stretch upward... Towells to keep scratches or scrapes... Possibly may have to put a strap around outside with cushion and boards to stop any other movement.

All that might work.... Or could make it worse...



Have to know what the connectors are made of. Since it bent.... I'm thinking its probably malleable.

What would keep the roof from not sagging back down after you remove the jack post? I think it's lost the integrity internally. I also think the factory could offer some insight into how or why the roof sagged. I'm sure they have the history and experience to have seen almost every possibility of damage over the 35 years of TM.

[HoMiPa]

I also think the factory could offer some insight into how or why the roof sagged. I'm sure they have the history and experience to have seen almost every possibility of damage over the 35 years of TM.

I'd certainly be interested in that response as well! I don't like the idea of having to jack up my rear roof, but since I have a few house jacks laying around, at least I have equipment to handle it - IF that would work to fix the problem.....

[Pele2048]

Pele2048 -

I don't have the tools to do that (do you, on your other forum? I may have to converse with the admin here.) If you really need the original version, I imagine he can get it for you. But I can't.

If you click on the "Last Edited By" it should give you the option to compare the new version with the old version...

Additions are shown in Green, Deletions are shown in Red.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15263&stc=1&d=1495124437

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15264&stc=1&d=1495124437

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15265&stc=1&d=1495124437

[Pele2048]

I also think the factory could offer some insight into how or why the roof sagged.

I'd certainly be interested in that response as well!

I am in contact with Sonja from the parts department at TrailManor.
That was one question I asked them.

Most of the wall consists of:
-Interior Layer of Aluminum
-Expanded Polystyrene foam (Styrofoam)
-Exterior Layer of Aluminum
-External "KrystalKote" Polyester coating

There are some 1" square aluminum tubes, but most of the roofing is what you


They do sell the center trim. It used to be white, but is now being supplied in black. It is shaped like an upside down "U" and has two strips of 3M adhesive tape on the ends. It costs about $2 a foot.

After the trim is applied, the factory installs a fine bead of caulk at either edge of the trim. Nothing is supposed to go under the trim.



What I've done so far is to place a piece of plywood on the floor to protect it from the floor jack. I used a floor jack and a 2x4 to lift up on the roof.

In my pictures I have a 4x4 to distribute the load on the roof. I have removed that 4x4 and replaced it with a bathroom scale turned upside down. It takes just shy of 100 lbs of force to straighten out the roof.

http://i.imgur.com/G6oAYrl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/krx4C66.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/bARxB2W.jpg

My plan is to install 1.5" angle stock aluminum (1/8th inch thick) on the front edge of the rear shell. (I've removed the original 12 inch long center aluminum bit.) My aluminum will run the full 7 feet from side to side and place the loading closer to the walls.

This angle stock should easily hold 100 lbs with just a bit of deflection. I will use the original mounting holes for the original center aluminum brace and the two bumpers at the edges.

If needed, I will add a second angle bar to replace the curtain rail for the rear bedroom.

[rvcycleguy]

Good work.

[HoMiPa]

This is awesome! And I think completely doable by me on mine. Please post photos of the angle stock aluminum, etc once you start that process. I'm a visual person. :-)

[Bill]

If you click on the "Last Edited By" it should give you the option to compare the new version with the old version...

Additions are shown in Green, Deletions are shown in Red.

Pele2048 -

We're both talking about post #24, right? It doesn't have a "Last edited by" entry. I do see the "Last edited by" entry on post #29, so I recognize what you are talking about. But for me, it ain't there on #24.

Bill

[Pele2048]

This is awesome! And I think completely doable by me on mine. Please post photos of the angle stock aluminum, etc once you start that process. I'm a visual person. :-)


Will do.

Also, while on the phone ordering my 30 ft roll of center trim yesterday, I asked if they could get pics of a TrailManor under construction or perhaps some design sketches... They are the factory, after all.

They said they'll see what they can get me.

And on a final note, I was up on the roof last night getting the leaves and acorns out from the A/C unit and from under the roof vents. I left my jack and 2x4 support post in the trailer last night.

We ended up getting a fairly strong thunderstorm.

Dry as a bone inside this morning, no evidence of dripping anywhere. Roof slope correction solved my leakage issues.

[HoMiPa]

Will do.

Thank you!


I asked if they could get pics of a TrailManor under construction or perhaps some design sketches... They are the factory, after all.

Unfortunately, how they build them now, is not necessarily how they were built before. There have been changes over the years, so not sure current photos/sketches will be the same as what you, or I, have in our trailers.


Dry as a bone inside this morning, no evidence of dripping anywhere. Roof slope correction solved my leakage issues.

That's good news! I think this is a project I will need to attempt sometime this summer. Again, although my dip isn't as deep as yours, I'm always very aware of how it is parked in reference to the prevailing wind, and lower the back end slightly 'just in case'. It would be nice if I wouldn't have to worry about that quite so much. I need to replace the bag seals anyway - mice did a job at one corner two winters ago. But will wait until after I attempt to fix the roof slope.

[HoMiPa]

Will do.

And on a final note, I was up on the roof last night getting the leaves and acorns out from the A/C unit and from under the roof vents. I left my jack and 2x4 support post in the trailer last night.

We ended up getting a fairly strong thunderstorm.

Dry as a bone inside this morning, no evidence of dripping anywhere. Roof slope correction solved my leakage issues.

I am curious to know if you were able to permanently correct the roof slope by adding a piece of angle iron, like you originally intended, and if you have any more instructions/photos on what you did once you removed the jack?

Thanks!

[Pele2048]

I am curious to know if you were able to permanently correct the roof slope by adding a piece of angle iron, like you originally intended, and if you have any more instructions/photos on what you did once you removed the jack?

Thanks!

I was able to get the roof slope corrected. I saw you had the same type of bend when I looked at your remodeling photos. (Good job BTW!)

I have the TrailManor folded down and tarped because I have quite a bit of work to do on the roof with regards to caulking. As it turns out, I have roof leaks because the eternabond tape was not put on a clean surface.

Under and on top of the eternabond tape is some sort of spray-on substance. It's almost like a foam of some sort, but not like the expanding foam; it's dried flat. Unfortunately, it was put on the top of the shells without any prep work what so ever... There's pine needles and seeds and leaves stuck in it.

I've got a gallon of denatured alcohol to work with so that I can get all the foam residue along with the eternabond residue off.

[BrucePerens]

Has your roof slope remained corrected after you took the jack away?

[Pele2048]

Has your roof slope remained corrected after you took the jack away?

It's reduced.

I don't think it'll ever be totally gone without replacing both shells, which obviously ain't happening.

So long as water stays out, I'm good.