Surging and noisy brakes on my Elkmont

[iamstrail]

Hello: We are new to towing and finally got our Elkmont on the road today. Had surging feeling in tow vehicle and noisy brakes coming from the trailer. Truck seemed to be running warm (as cooling fan came on several times and we only traveled a few miles to local park. We did not have this the only other time we had it on the road. Suggestions please? thank you,

[ThePair]

My WDH creaked on turns until I greased the proper places: where the heads of the trunnion bars put the pressure on the hitch attachment points. Looking at the setup, it became patently obvious where the pressure was, and I had only addressed one side (the front of the top of the trunnion attachment). Once I greased up the back of the bottom of that area, the groans stopped completely. Blissful silence :)

[brulaz]

Had surging feeling in tow vehicle and noisy brakes coming from the trailer. Truck seemed to be running warm (as cooling fan came on several times and we only traveled a few miles to local park. We did not have this the only other time we had it on the road. Suggestions please? thank you,

Hmm, our Elkmont brakes are very quiet. We have a Tekshona Prodigy Brake controller.

When it is on the lowest setting, the trailer brakes hardly activate, and you can feel the truck rock on it's springs when you hit the brake pedal hard; the trailer is pushing the truck forward.

When you put the controller on a very high setting, the trailer seems to be pulling the truck to a stop and at extrememly high settings, the trailer brakes will lock up and you'll leave a patch of rubber when you brake.

So when you say "surging" I think your brake controller is set too low. But when you say noisy, I think it's set too high and the brakes are locking up.

Or maybe they're just not working properly and you should have somebody look at them.

[Wavery]

Hello: We are new to towing and finally got our Elkmont on the road today. Had surging feeling in tow vehicle and noisy brakes coming from the trailer. Truck seemed to be running warm (as cooling fan came on several times and we only traveled a few miles to local park. We did not have this the only other time we had it on the road. Suggestions please? thank you,
It does take a bit of time to get used to adjusting the WDH and brake controller. Do a little research on adjusting each tool. Adjustment is critical to the proper use of these items.

As for the "Truck". What yr, make, model truck do you have? Does it have a "Factory" tow package?

[Scott O]

Another thing to consider, particularly if your TV seems to be running hot, is whether the TM brakes are adjusted properly. If they are dragging, that could account for both problems... This would be the easiest place to start, as the adjustment is very simple.

[iamstrail]

Thank you all for your help/suggestions
(We have an '07 Honda Ridgeline with hitch, etc. installed by Custom RV, Anaheim, CA)
Thanks again, john & vonnie
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

[Wavery]

Thank you all for your help/suggestions
(We have an '07 Honda Ridgeline with hitch, etc. installed by Custom RV, Anaheim, CA)
Thanks again, john & vonnie
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

I would suggest that you take your fully loaded rig to a scales on the way to your next camp-out. I think that you will find that you are towing at the upper limits of the Ridgeline.

Adding a large transmission cooler would go a along way toward keeping your transmission and engine running cooler (if you don't already have one).

Having said that, you should not be running hot with that rig unless it is a very hoy day and/or you are climbing a grade with the AC on.

[iamstrail]

Another thing to consider, particularly if your TV seems to be running hot, is whether the TM brakes are adjusted properly. If they are dragging, that could account for both problems... This would be the easiest place to start, as the adjustment is very simple.

Where do we find info/instructions on adjusting Elkmont brakes?
The red 3 ring binder we rec'd with purchase seems to be geared toward
the collapsible models of the TM. Would brakes be the same for Elkmont?
We are not mechanically inclined (& that's being generous!)
thanks again, von iams

[brulaz]

Where do we find info/instructions on adjusting Elkmont brakes?
The red 3 ring binder we rec'd with purchase seems to be geared toward
the collapsible models of the TM. Would brakes be the same for Elkmont?
We are not mechanically inclined (& that's being generous!)
thanks again, von iams

You should have rec'd a Dexter Axle manual for the brakes on the Elkmont. If you didn't, get one from your dealer. The brakes are mostly self-adjusting and need only to be manually adjusted if the self-adjusting feature fails. The manual says how to do this, but I would have an expert look at them if it comes to that.

[ShrimpBurrito]

The Elkmont brakes are self-adjusting? Nice. Maybe the folding TM's now have that, since that never was the case before.

Dave

[cochise]

I would suggest that you take your fully loaded rig to a scales on the way to your next camp-out. I think that you will find that you are towing at the upper limits of the Ridgeline.

Adding a large transmission cooler would go a along way toward keeping your transmission and engine running cooler (if you don't already have one).

Having said that, you should not be running hot with that rig unless it is a very hoy day and/or you are climbing a grade with the AC on.

The Elkmont 24 has a GVWR of 4230 lb,, and the tow capacity of the 07 Ridgeline is 5000 lb so he should be within the limits. But you are right, a larger trans cooler is always good.

[brulaz]

The Elkmont brakes are self-adjusting? Nice. Maybe the folding TM's now have that, since that never was the case before.


Thanks, Dave, you are right. I'd better be more careful in giving advice. I was just reading from the Dexter Axle manual, but I missed the "12 1/4" part. I think the brakes on the 3500# axle are only 10".

So they have to be manually adjusted after all. I'll have to add that to my toDo list.

For the O.P. it's not too hard, but you do have to jack up the trailer and climb under it to get at the adjusting slot in the wheel. I'd get the manual first and then decide whether you want to try it yourself.

[Wavery]

The Elkmont 24 has a GVWR of 4230 lb,, and the tow capacity of the 07 Ridgeline is 5000 lb so he should be within the limits. But you are right, a larger trans cooler is always good.

As I stated before......it is well worth your time to get your entire rig weighed.

Tow rating means little on most vehicles. I believe that your GCWR (this is the max weight that your Ridgeline is rated to handle, including passengers, cargo, fuel and fully loaded trailer) is a little over 10K#. My guess is that your rig may be very close to that when fully loaded for camping. It may not be too.....you just don't know what you don't know.

Your original post seemed to indicate that you are concerned about over-heating. Knowing the weight of your combined rig may go a long way toward helping you understand why that may be.

[iamstrail]

Since we are not comfortable trying to adjust brakes ourselves, what type shop can do this? We are in San Diego and Custom RV (dealer) is in Anaheim - too far to tow with this going on. thanks again, the iams'

[Wavery]

Since we are not comfortable trying to adjust brakes ourselves, what type shop can do this? We are in San Diego and Custom RV (dealer) is in Anaheim - too far to tow with this going on. thanks again, the iams'

I would think that any automotive or tire store (that does brakes) would adjust the brakes for you. It's a pretty simple job for most any mechanic. However, if you've never adjusted brakes before, it is best left to a pro.

[ZekenSpider]

john & vonnie;

I've been watching this thread with interest since you first posted because I too experienced brake problems with my TM (a 3326K) as soon as I drove it home from my dealer in Glendale, AZ. I could feel a surging when I put the brakes on but I attributed it to new brakes that were not yet broken in. I put 1800 miles on the TM before the problem really got serious.

You can read the details at http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9594 if interested.

My point in responding to your last post is that I sense a little desperation and want to offer some suggestions for some simple tests to find out if you really have a brake problem. Yes you should be able to get them adjusted at any good brake or tire shop, but let's first find out if you really have a brake problem.

One test method that may work is to feel the temperature of your trailer wheels before towing it for several (20) miles (apply the brakes as little as possible). Then right after the tow, feel them again. If the brakes are dragging, the wheel hubs will get noticeably hotter (It could be just one side). If there is dragging, it could be caused by the controller or some other electrical connection problem.

The next method is a way to eliminate the electrical part of the uncertainty.

First unplug the trailer electrical plug from the TV, then with the trailer still attached to the TV hitch to keep it from rolling, jack one trailer wheel at a time off the ground and try to spin it (be sure you are jacking at the proper point according to the Elkmont jacking procedure-call Custom RV for details). The wheels should spin fairly easily. A little rubbing or dragging is OK. If they turn OK, there is no brake adjustment needed (at least until your first 500 mile check).

Next, plug the trailer electrical into the TV and then try each trailer wheel again. They both should spin as before. If not, the brake controller (or some other electrical source) is applying voltage to the trailer brakes when it should not be.

Finally, if the wheels spin OK during the previous tests, plug the electrical into the TV again, then spin them again and while turning, apply the trailer brakes. The wheels should stop instantly. If all this checks out OK, you do not have a brake problem and it should be safe to tow it to Anaheim for more troubleshooting.

I am wondering about the part of your first post where you say the brakes are noisy. What do you hear? If one of you walks along side the trailer as it is slowly towed, what do you hear?(both sides) When the brakes are lightly applied, what do you hear? This is all good information that will help your dealer in his diagnosis.

Regards,

Jerry

[iamstrail]

Thank you all. Hope to reach Custom RV first of week (think they were at a show this last weekend as no answer). We appreciate all the information and suggestions.
We are not giving up yet, but it is overwhelming at times. Thanks again, john & von
PS Zekespider: tried to read link about your experience, but would not give us access...??

[ZekenSpider]

Thank you all. Hope to reach Custom RV first of week (think they were at a show this last weekend as no answer). We appreciate all the information and suggestions.
We are not giving up yet, but it is overwhelming at times. Thanks again, john & von
PS Zekespider: tried to read link about your experience, but would not give us access...??

I suspect you need to become a site sponsor to view it. It's well worth the cost. Here is a copy of that post.

This thread may apply to the 3326 only as it is the only TM with dual axle configuration.

My 2010 3326 (delivered in August of 2009) has been a joy to tow and camp in. The shake down trip of 220 miles was a pleasure as was a 1,700 mile trip to and from Petaluma, CA and a weekend trip to the Catalina Mountains in Tuscon.

The brakes have always worked correctly, but would occasionally feel a little "grabby" at slow speeds. Tire /wheel temperatures (TST tire monitor) always appeared normal (usually in the 95 degree area except in the late summer in Phoenix). The brake adjustment was checked OK at 210 miles and was due again in about 500 miles.

Last week, while heading to my local dealer (AZ Campers and Trailers) to have the heater exhaust system replaced, I noticed white smoke behind the TM. Upon examination, I found the TM front, right wheel locked up (not turning). By the time I drove to a safe place to jack up that side, the tire had worn through the belt and was going flat. Only then did my TST monitor tell me a problem existed.

AZ Campers and Trailers sent a field tech to my assistance. After checking for a possible electrical malfunction, he pulled the tire, then with great difficulty, the hub/drum. The drum was found to be 1/8th inch out of round and had probably locked-up the brake at my last traffic signal stop.

The work is not yet done (waiting for parts), but Dexter Axle is replacing the entire hub/drum/brake system on the front axle, right side and TM is supplying a new tire. All the work is being done under warranty. The real question is what happened?

The only answer so far is "stuff happens". I see, on other RV forums, that dual axle brake lock-up is an occasional discussion topic and warped drums are considered the cause. What is really clear is; on a dual axle trailer, a tire can be destroyed within just a few blocks of driving if a brake-locks up. And... it is very hard to detect that it is happening. By the time you see the smoke, it is too late.

It looks like I need a wheel rotation sensor as well as all the other bells and whistles. On the other hand, this probably will not happen again. Heh, heh heh.

Jerry